Tennant Suit Pt 2: The Trousers from Hell

You may remember from the last post that I wanted to learn how to make welted pockets for the inner lining of the suit.  Since the pants pattern had those pockets in the back, I decided to put the suit on hold and start on the pants, then go back and finish the lining once I got a few pockets under my belt.  I have to say, if nothing else, I learned a great many things during this project that I will use later on.  Unfortunately, it was in a "here's what NOT to do next time" capacity...

The pattern I chose for the trousers was Burda 7447:

The several languages before English should have been a clue...

I suppose I could have found a men's pattern, but I figured I may as well make something that would actually fit well, so I went with a women's instead.  I mainly chose this one because of the back pockets, which most of the other pants patterns I found lacked.  

Of course, again it turned out that I would probably have faired better simply adding the pockets on my own without following the pattern.  What I didn't realize was that the pants pockets in the pattern were single welted--they only had one fold that shows on the outer fabric to frame the pocket opening.  For my Tennant trousers, I needed a double-welted pocket.  Plus a button.  Plus a button loop.  Naturally.  

On the left you see my original attempt to make a single-welted pocket.  That actually worked quite well.  Then, imagine my shock and horror when I flipped the pants over and realized that it was not the pocket I had been anticipating...

After I ripped the whole thing back out, I realized that the patter only allowed for one welt.  In order to make it look the way I wanted, I would have to completely re-enginier the entire pocket placement.  Joy.  The photo on the right is my new and improved model.  After many hours of toil.

I'd like to take credit for the fact that the top and bottom welts match
perfectly, but, alas, it was simply an unexpected miracle.

Above is my first, mostly freehanded, attempt at a double-welted pocket.  The hardest part with these pockets is getting the corners even.  As you can see, my technique could still use some work.  Happily, the button loop was not too hard and I even managed to get the one blue stripe exactly in the middle.  Huzzah!

SUCCESS!!!

Here's the finished pocket on the other side of the pants.  Sadly, the welting was not perfect (hence the wrinkles) but after hours of trying to get them right, I figured that I really didn't want anyone inspecting my backside closely enough to notice any sewing mishaps.  

Other than the pockets, the pattern worked fairly well.  I learned how to make yolk pockets for the side (I highly recommend these--they are much easier than regular pockets!), how to install a flap zipper in the front (agony!!), and, after many years of terror at the very thought, how to use the buttonhole maker on my sewing machine (with mixed results).  

Come back for the Tennant Suit Pt 3: Return of the Jacket!